Well i finally did it and bought myself a "project" NSR! I've dabbled with the idea for a while now so when a friend of a friend mentioned he had an old NSR he might sell i was interested.
Story went that he had stuffed in into a hedge about 2 and a half years ago shoved under a tar pallin and then bought a RS250 instead. He eckoned it was perhaps a MC21 but wasn't sure and all the bodywork was trashed, tank dented and rear sub frame mangled and thrown. Although it didnt sound pretty i thought i would take a look on the way back from Brands working one weekend. Got there and at least he hadn't exagerated the extend of the damage!






Its an MC18 not 21 and although it needs lots of work and parts are not that easy to find i bartered it down to £200 so i thought i was a good start.

Project Wet dog came from when the lad uncovered the bike the smell was like my mate German Shepard after a swim in the local river and didn't improve all the way home in the van.

Next stage start to strip it and see what else is missing and broken.


Last edited by hutch on Mon Dec 01, 2008 7:46 pm; edited 1 time in total

Ok next stage, i've begun the strip.The tank is not dented just scratched which was good, wheels are straight and exhaust is solid. Faults though so far found are as follows.
1. Both cans missing
2. no subframe
3. no bodywork
4. rev counter and mounting bracket mangled
5. Front forks twisted(possibily bent)
6. Bottom yolk twisted and bent
7. Head bearings shot
8. Chain and sprockets rusty heaps

Well thats the list so far and i haven't even started on the engine yet.

Thoughts so far are that it will be a track bike to complement my Gix 1000 track bike. And possible ideas in no order are:

1. Tyga bodywork
2. Tyga MC21 subframe and rear seat kit
3. Transplant front end CBR/ VFR etc
4. End cans of any sort for now but hopefuly full system when funds allow
5. Stack rev counter in custom made mount, maybe intergrated rev and speedo system.
6. light head work perhaps but engine standard until the chassis is sorted.

I suppose the biggest issue is the front end, i've searched the forum and seen NC30/35 forks used but is this with the standard york. If not does any of the front end bolt straight in?

Well i'll continue to strip it and see what else i find.

you can fit any forks and yokes mate as you just need your nsr stem
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ive seen more tarts than mr kipling

To keep it simple, look for any MC18 or MC21 forks. They will slot straight in and retain the same calipers, discs, wheel, and spacers.

MC28 forks will also slot in, but you will need MC28 (or similar later threaded) calipers.

NC30 forks are the same diameter, allow you to use an NSR 3" or VFR 3.5" front wheel, and the bigger 296mm discs.

As Si says, you can fit just about anything if you want to though, once the NSR stem is pressed (or sleeved and pressed) into the new yokes. My MC21 has HRC RS250 USD forks with a custom alloy stem and my MC16 has 1990 HRC RS250 RWU forks (the '90 forks have preload, rebound and compression damping, but are shorter than the NSR forks) with HRC lower alloy triple and custom alloy stem. The '18 had to "make do" with an F3 front end, which is for the sake of argument, just a re-worked NSR front-end really, although it does have an alloy bottom yoke!

NC30 front-end with big discs (stick with the 3" wheel in my opinion) or an MC21SE front-end is probably your best bet for a cheap but good setup.
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Andy.
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yes the standard forks on my sp were plenty good enough i only changed them because i wanted the look of the more modern rsw gp bike im making a replica of oh and because im a tart but to be honest for the money you cant go wrong with some adjustable nsr forks.
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ive seen more tarts than mr kipling

I'll start the search, unless someone has any floating about? Going to need the yolks as well as the bottom yolk is badly twisted. I might even get away with rebuilding the ones i have if they are straight but it still comes back to that twisted bottom yolk

i sold mine but have a 21 bottom yoke kicking around if you ever need one
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ive seen more tarts than mr kipling

A '21 bottom is fine to use on an MC18.
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Andy.
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silikesguiness you have PM

Actually I think you will find the MC18 and MC21 bottom yokes are different. The steering stops on the MC18 are at the front of the Yoke where as the ones on the MC21 are at the back.

I guess this can be modified though.

Didn't think about that Leigh!

I only meant that you can swap triples (in some cases it needs to be top and bottom together) between all models.
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Andy.
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Got the bottom yolk off and its well twisted so i will have to replace that.



Still cant work out if the forks are bent but i might replace them because the chrome is pitted. David Silver has new stachions for about £35. Also has new exhausts for £69 each side minus cans which seemed good.

Striped a few more bits , Compost anyone?

Been collecting bits and piecesfor the Dog. Have secured a Dry clutch and SP gearbox, set of Jolly Moto pipes and a 17 inch rear wheel as well as a few mundain parts. Thanks to the guys on the forum who have helped out so far. Also managed to get a F3 airbox from New Zealand , thanks Kieran for sorting that out.





[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/hutchuk68/Wet%20Dog/P1200064.jpg



The box isnt too bad , a little damage here and there but it is probaly quite old. Original idea was to get it moulded ready to be made into carbon, however the box itself is fairly flexable so not sure if moulding would be possible. Also does it need to be flexable to get it to fit?

Next stage is to drop the motor and see what hidden horrors lerk inside. Going to take a while as i am setting up a new business so NSR on back burner for a month or two. Good thing is at least i will have a workshop to use and get out of my cramped garage.

Hasnt exactly been an enviromentaly friendly project with parts from all over the UK , clock from Japan and airbox from New Zealand! Then again who ever said 2 strokes where enviromentaly friendly

I can assure you a mould can be taken from it! It's in a damn sight better condition than the MC21 airbox I copied!

Yes, the GRP/carbon one needs to be a little flexible, and therefore thin, to squeeze them into place.
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Andy.
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I'll speak to my carbon supplier and see what they say. Is it better to get it done with no holes cut? This has a few i cant work out at the mo and might be specific to the last bike it came from.