Went out Sunday for a rip,got about 60 miles from home, when,coming to a junction the motor stalls,kickstart solid .Gave the bike a shove and could feel the motor moving o.k.,tried the kickstarter,and it fires up!rode it home -carefully at first-got a bit brave closer to home,and gave it holly for the last ten miles. It seems o.k.starts fine and runs as it should.I know ,I know,rip it down and have an look,so back to the toolbox for my days off :cry:feckin 2-strokes

I'd whip the pipes off first and have a quick look see up the exhaust port. Saves ripping it all to bits.......actually now I think about it, I'm not to sure what this would tell you. I'll get my coat shall I............

racer38 wrote:I'd whip the pipes off first and have a quick look see up the exhaust port. Saves ripping it all to bits.......actually now I think about it, I'm not to sure what this would tell you. I'll get my coat shall I............

That`s where I`d start too. Could tell you which side has gone. Then the spark plugs, you can usually see some form of indication of seizure with these two methods. Shine a torch up the ports. Look for scuffs/rough surface on the piston. If one of the plugs looks grey/dry or has deposits of metal on it, it`s a sign of trouble. You can sometimes see that one of the tailpipes will be grey/white in colour too.

if the pistons look good, then you can pull the reed valves and get a peek at the crank.
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Charles Gallant

If it actually siezed its time to rebuild.. Ive had bikes sieze and run again but if you keep running it, more substantial damage is inevitable.
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1996 MC28 SE
NSR250R2R

,When dismantling the motor, I found the power jet x piece was broken.The lower piston is scored on the intake side,.I had suspected the crank had expired,might still be the case .I had been using wot for a good amount of the run,so my question is-could the broken x piece caused this damage?There is no apparent damage to the crank,and rotating it ,it feels free to turn.Any suggestions gratefully received!!

If the X-piece was broken, that is almost certainly what destroyed the motor. It would've run leaner and leaner as the RPM increased.

You will quite possibly get away with only a top-end.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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Just but a small cap full oil in the tank to richin it up, it will be fine worked for me, er honest all my bikes did that guvner, normal innit just keep thrashing it till it spits you off then you will have plenty of time to think of what you should have done the first time
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Farting is funny

Said the man with more seized barrels than the Suzuki GP squad!
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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I can't identify the part number for the X-piece,anyone know it?

o o


Last edited by DifferentStrokes on Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:15 pm; edited 1 time in total

Rebuilt the motor,fired it up to heat cycle and noticed that an exhaust was blowing at the manifold,gave the nut a squeeze,and broke the stud I am going to run out of base gaskets soon if this continues

if it seized then it seized. There's no quick fix in my book.

Agreed, you can't see if the piston has any damage and the ring is semi stuck and that can happen with near zero bore damage.
It could seem fine but it's not and it will nip up again, this time properly. For the sake of a £1.70 base gasket (that you can probably reuse if you're stuck anyway) and 10 mins (or 3 hours and all your knuckle skin if you've got all the road kit on and it's the top one) I'd always say whip the plugs out to determin which one has gone then get the barrel off.
Maybe the barrel will rescue, maybe not, ditto the piston, maybe it will be "good as new" again, maybe not. But the best chance it's got is being cleaned up properly.
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Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread

I put in a new piston,rings,clips and pin,the bore was undamaged.It was just a pain to snap the stud and take that barrel off again.No bother though,a local engineering shop had the stud out in no time.