Which is it at the top of the list? How much money do you have to spend? _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
2000 Australian dollars, longest life, using as main transport, till the Mercedes i have from a doctor is used again _________________ HRC Is Getting Expensive
It’s like that quality cost time triangle, you can't have all three.
Is this logic sound? You’re going to be running it hard, so why not build for performance and quality but complete the build over a longer time frame so as to reduce initial cost.
That is when you got the motor out doing the rings or rebuilding it in the future do a second lot of upgrades then?? _________________ MC28 Track Bike
01' Honda VTR 250 (previously owned)
05' Suzuki Gsx-R 600 (road bike)
De-restrict, which should net you high fifties hp, and cost pennies to achieve - assuming we're talking anything other than MC28.
Spend the money on genuine parts, and a dyno setup if there's one about.
Keep the airbox and filter, nothing filters as well as that, and anything going into the crankcase that isn't petrol air or oil is gonna shorten the life of the crank.
Fit decent new tyres, and service the brakes.
If you have spare cash, then get the suspension overhauled - start with the front. If you can't afford it, then at least get some fresh oil in there.
That help any? _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
Dave Ett wrote:For reliability, keep it completely standard.
De-restrict, which should net you high fifties hp, and cost pennies to achieve - assuming we're talking anything other than MC28.
Spend the money on genuine parts, and a dyno setup if there's one about.
Keep the airbox and filter, nothing filters as well as that, and anything going into the crankcase that isn't petrol air or oil is gonna shorten the life of the crank.
Fit decent new tyres, and service the brakes.
If you have spare cash, then get the suspension overhauled - start with the front. If you can't afford it, then at least get some fresh oil in there.
That help any?
+1 Absolutely what Dave says. Keep it stock and just ride like it is meant to be ridden. _________________ 1994 MC28 Rothman
TSR250 AC28M
Thinking of getting the crankcases drilled above or beside the outter crank bearings, and uisng something like a main jet to supply a trickle of oil to the bearings for use with premix.
using something like an greedy oil catch can with a bicycle tyre valve to pressurise it, altering the size of main jets to gain a safe flow of oil with out backing up the front cylinder with to much oil flow,
experienced men out there do you know the rate a crank may use oil for the bearings. or - Sending email to bearing site with request of knowledge, have seen sight with bearings that go to 80 000 rpm not sure on weight limit though.
Might have to hit that snipper motor of MATTS for a smaller main jet. _________________ HRC Is Getting Expensive
What on earth are you thinking? The bearings are designed to work the way they do a reason. I seriously doubt you are smarter than all the engineers at Honda and every other manufacture in the world. It might be possible to do what you are talking about, but it will surely compromise something else in the process. Just build your motor as stock and leave it. That will fit your criteria the best. _________________ james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm
Of course it is! I guess it does sound outlandish, though. Why do you want to do the mod - have you experienced bearing failure before due to oil starvation?
The NSR isn't known for it, and I think the later models had extra oil ways to the outer bearings anyway.
The engine design in obviously very old now, and things can always be improved on, but I think oiling is one area they got right.
Do keep the discussion going though, it's always interesting to hear new ideas. _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
If you look at the specs for the 63/28 bearing, which is dimensionally very similar to an NSR crank bearing, the max rpm when running in oil is 13,000rpm.
The NSR bearings run in oil (either injected, or premixed) and are rated to 13,500rpm or thereabouts.
As for drilling extra holes to pressure feed the bearings, there's two opinions here. One would say that the bearing will receive a good supply of oil so will (in theory) never run dry so should last longer. The second opinion is that with the pressurized oil feed the bearing will receive too much oil, which could limit it's speed of rotation.
Just a thought.
Another thought is that with premixed fuel/oil there is more than enough oil in suspension that it'll reach all corners of the cases so there's really no need to worry. In the RS125 I spannered in the Jap Championship we had one set of cases with minimum case volume (for Tsukuba), and we'd not only totally redesigned the cases and crank, but there were no oil galleries for drip feed to the mains. These were all epoxied up. The premixed fuel/oil did a good job and we never suffered failure.
Was at the Bolt man on saturday morning, and a guy walked in by the name of tom ruck, owns a mc18 was doing a track day and at the end of one of the straights had a end bearing sieze op on him, closed the throttle and end no more fun,
Only ever travelled around 2000 kms on an nsr, sliding the rear round corners is lots of fun, _________________ HRC Is Getting Expensive
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