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studricho

 
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G'day new member.

Wed Jan 10, 2007 2:40 pm » Post: #1 » Download Post

It's great to find a forum on nsr. I bought a crashed nsr150sp for my wife, completly rebuilt it and i'm having a few issues with it. It seems to splutter just a little of idle and the kick stater is giving me grief. Not engaging.

I'll try to keep my question brief, so i don't waer out my welcome. Here i go.

-Idle mixture screw, what should it be set at?
-The oil pump adjustment. I've set it at max when throttle is max. Correct?
-Power valve setting?

The story


I didn't reliase that when the bike went over it landed on the kick starter shaft and snapped the mounts on the crankcase. When i got it started the kick starter went up and down by itself.

New motor. Put it in. Top up gearbox oil to the window not knowing that the window gave me a false ready. It blew 2nd gear. rebuild motor using both motors to get a good one. New gaskets and rings. It's a bit knocky sound, but i'm assured that's normall. Now the kick starter doesn't always engage.

Thsi is the first 2-stroke bike i've owed and i've owed about 7 cbr250 before hand. Not a bad little bike, i just want to get it storted. Please help.

Some pics

before


Ready to go back together


Back together again

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Last edited by studricho on Sat Jan 13, 2007 1:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Dave Ett
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Wed Jan 10, 2007 6:19 pm » Post: #2 » Download Post

Welcome to the site. Fancy filling in your location so we can get a picture of where you are? There might be NSR owners nearby!

I'm not an expert on the 150 I'm afraid, so you'll have to wait until the likes of Matt or Stephen come along. However,

Oil pump should be set to max as the throttle does.

Power Valve should be set to open fully at max revs - or somewhere about 6000 (at a guess). On the 250 there is a proceedure to fool the system into thinking it needs to be at maximum when the engine is off, but I don't know if that setup applies for the 150.

As for the kickstart, I dunno! Never had one fail, so I've never had to dig into it. I suspect there's a cog sticking on a shaft though...
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StephenRC45
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Wed Jan 10, 2007 6:25 pm » Post: #3 » Download Post

I'm afraid Dave I dont have a clue!... over to you Matt!

Saying that, How did the oil window give you a poor reading and cause the gear box to end its life?
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studricho

 
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Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:52 pm » Post: #4 » Download Post

StephenRC45 wrote:I'm afraid Dave I dont have a clue!... over to you Matt!

Saying that, How did the oil window give you a poor reading and cause the gear box to end its life?


Easy. If you have a look at how the oil comes in through the filler hole it pours directly into the window, plus near the window it has a deflective plate to prevent oil splash from the clutch. This also heaps oil fill up the window first.

So i thought the gearbox was full. I was tipping from a 4 litre container and chatting to someone. Thought, that didn't take much oil, checked it. Hmm window is full, must be full.
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Matt@TYGA
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Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:03 am » Post: #5 » Download Post

You need to pull off the side cover and check that the kick start mechanism was put together correctly, and that the return spring is located properly. Unlike the NSR250, the 250 has a missing tooth on the kickstarter engaging gear so it's impossible to get wrong. However, the shaft may be bent, or one of the springs may have gone walkies.

As for engine noise, well, none of the NSR150SP's I've seen have been very quiet! Even AP Honda say that some knocking is normal! My old race NSR150's didn't knock though and made nearly 40hp, so it's as much down to how you put them together.

Oil quantity is 0.7L at change & 0.8L at rebuild. SAE 10W-40.

Oil pump has a mark on the pulley which should align with a mark on the pump at WOT.

Can't really remember the procedure for setting the RC valves, but if you rev the engine up and down you'll see that there's high and low marks on the cylinder. Just adjust the cable until the high lines up at high rpm. It might even be that at idle the valve moves to the set position which is where the cut out in the pulley should align with a hole in the cylinder.
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studricho

 
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Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:21 am » Post: #6 » Download Post

^^^Thank you very much. You have no idea how hard is to get some help with this model around here. Even the local honda dealer was amazed that my nsr150sp would rev when it's cold. They had a customers bike that wouldn't rev when cold or on choke, they just showed the customer how to manage the problem, not fix it.

I found that my bikes has a washer under the needle and when i took it out, it was doing the same thing as the local dealers bike, very interesting.

You right about the kickstarter. I put it back together and it was just catching on the starter. I removed the kickstater and pushed back the other way, problems have started even since.
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Andy
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Fri Jan 12, 2007 4:00 pm » Post: #7 » Download Post

studricho wrote:
Even the local honda dealer was amazed that my nsr150sp would rev when it's cold. They had a customers bike that wouldn't rev when cold or on choke, they just showed the customer how to manage the problem, not fix it.

Shocked

I hope you don't make a habit of revving it from cold?! No motor, especially a 2-stroke should be revved hard until warmed up!
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fenton
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Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:01 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

Rolling Eyes
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studricho

 
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Fri Jan 12, 2007 9:20 pm » Post: #9 » Download Post

Andy wrote:
studricho wrote:
Even the local honda dealer was amazed that my nsr150sp would rev when it's cold. They had a customers bike that wouldn't rev when cold or on choke, they just showed the customer how to manage the problem, not fix it.

Shocked

I hope you don't make a habit of revving it from cold?! No motor, especially a 2-stroke should be revved hard until warmed up!


I meant that the bike wouldn't rev off idle and barely idle at that. So when you start from cold it was almost impossible to ride.
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Sat Jan 13, 2007 1:29 am » Post: #10 » Download Post

Must be too lean then Wink
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studricho

 
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Wed Jan 17, 2007 6:39 am » Post: #11 » Download Post

Anyone know what the idle misture screw should be set at factory settings?

Is it an idle mixture screw or an air mixture screw? It's on the side of the airbox, so does that make it and air mixture screw?

I can't wait to get the tyga exhaust for it. I should get in the next few weeks.
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Wed Jan 17, 2007 6:56 am » Post: #12 » Download Post

The idle adjuster is a big yellow knob thingy that you screw in to raise the idle and out to lower.

The air screw (mixture screw) is a brass screw at the rear of the carb, next to the airbox mount rubber. Screw this in to richen the mixture and out to lean off. The standard Honda setting is 2 turns out from fully seated.
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studricho

 
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Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:40 am » Post: #13 » Download Post

Matt@TYGA wrote:The idle adjuster is a big yellow knob thingy that you screw in to raise the idle and out to lower.

The air screw (mixture screw) is a brass screw at the rear of the carb, next to the airbox mount rubber. Screw this in to richen the mixture and out to lean off. The standard Honda setting is 2 turns out from fully seated.


Thanks again Matt. I did know what the yellow knob did by the way.
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