thanks Eric. That's interesting and confusing with all the numbers. Even though the brakes are working...I think I'll be dismantling them, checking and probably refreshing all the seals and then replenishing with DOT-3 or probably DOT-4 will be fine as I don't think I'l ever be going mental on it.

Funny how if you give it some time before you go back to it, it doesn't seem such a chore.

Not every job that needs done is exciting.


Looks like the wires leading up to the ignition switch got a big pinching...so that needs to be fixed...


and needs new wiring sleeving so this connector block has to come off taking note of which wire goes where first...


with the block in the vice like this...


inserting something long and thin in the top part of that 'top hat' shape...


it's possible to press down on these raised tabs and give the wire a little tug out the back...


give them a good clean....


...and then a dab of dielectric grease...


and then deal with tidying up the wires with a better joint...


I like using these heat shrink connectors...just search Amazon for 'heat shrink butt connectors"...just make sure you have some heat shrink sleeve slid up one of the wires first..


Before heat gun...


after heat gun...


then some shrink wire over it....yes it's a bit belt and braces...but it does no harm...


and then after choosing a large enough wire sleeve that all three wires will fit thru and referring to your before pictures illustrating where each wire went....you slide the blades back in with a satisfying 'click'
and that's done..

cleaning up the wire harness




Beginning to lay it in place...



Cleaning up the rear fender...



and making sure collars are in place before bolting on...





Grabbing the PGM-CDI...


Cleaning it and then getting out the new rubber mounts and bolts..


and into place...


tool box...



orginal turn signals...

Honda NSR250 Tools

Time to get this engine in...


The engine is not heavy (30kg or 64lbs in old money) but small scissor lift is a necessity...


to lift it up and line it up to it's mounting points...


of the front hanger points with this set up...


top left of photo...you can see how it looks when it's slid thru all the appropriate holes...


this one...


...goes in here...top left hanger




this one....goes thru the left bottom hanger arm extension...


...here...


bottom rear mounting next...


Last edited by Hudtm60 on Sun Apr 13, 2025 5:13 pm; edited 1 time in total

Over to the rear bottom engine mounting...


Cleaned up threads


Slid in long bolt...


This odd looking adjuster bolt goes in (12mm allen required) and you just snug it up to the engine and and then torque it to 1.0-2.0kg/7-15ft/lb


...then the lock nut goes on and tighten that to what you think is about 6-7kg/ms while holding the adjuster bolt in place


and then check it with the torque wrench...


final nut on...and that's done...the engine is in...





Last edited by Hudtm60 on Sun Apr 13, 2025 5:14 pm; edited 2 times in total

Random resto porn pics..














Made-In-Japan throttle cables. Not OEM but great reproductions..can't remember exactly where it came from but WeBike! now has them and Googling the part number HB6225-10 brings up other vendors £20ish


New Ones are Slightly longer...hoping thats not an issue...you know how that it is...it might, might not be.


New Honda throttle tube and grips all set to go..


Cleaning up


PreLube


And lubing the old ones before storing them (not wrapped up like this though) There are still in relatively good condition and will be good for emergencies.


Routing





Clutch cable routing..










Wisely using Bel-Ray Dot 4 for the front brakes...


...nevertheless the bleeding was a proper pain in the arse. Was filling, pumping, filling again, very few bubbles but was not getting any resistance to move the pads. Thought about posting here and asking a question but didn't want to bother anyone so decided to try something different. AI. I described the problem to Chat GPT and amongst other things such as reverse filling the system with a syringe from the calipers it suggested to loosen the banjo bolts at the master cylinder. I did that and I've never been so happy to hear a quiet yet elongated hiss......big result....all good now.





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Looking sweet - going to have a proper read when I get on a PC and can see the pictures properly

Thank you sir. It seems to be taking forEVER...there's been many little time consuming curveballs such as the rear Master Cylinder and it took me a while to re-learn how to reassemble the carbs...(more of that later) and now the clocks which came back from London looking pretty good...

BEFORE:


AFTER: and note that the speedo has been re-calibrated to MPH with the appropriate backing plate but....spot the issue.....we're already flying along at 35mph....Peter at https://www.guagerepairs.com/ said shipping must have caused the needle to move off point. Even though they were well packed...the needle sits on a non-splined tapered shaft so it wouldn't take much to knock it out of position. Not particularly looking forward to fixing it myself- but there's no point in sending it back as it could easily happen again. His advice to me: "It's a press fit onto a taper shaft. Don't use heat! Use two teaspoons either side of the boss to pop the pointer. It rests just under the stop. Then very carefully lift it over the stop."


Don't say it.


The trip knob has a screw attaching it...glad I thought there might be one...some are press fit


got the spoons out and hey presto....needle pops off..


and back to zero...


putting the rubber mounts back in...


Speedo in first...


checking on the electrics...


even got these no-longer-made little rubber bits...


one of the illuminating bulbs needed replaced...


more rubber bits


Honda at their best...making it easy to put things back together with noting which wire goes where on the temp gauge..mind you...what is the color L? process of elimination found it's place.




With fancy carbon bits....


or without..


Not that dramatic...but pretty cool...


In position...


I ordered a new foam surround from Jauce...someone appears to be making them....have have one of those Tyga carbon fibre surronds but not sure why I got it because...I'm not a big fan of stick on carbon fibre...Jauce item looks good...not exactly cheap or the right colour but I think it's also there to stabalize the clocks which it does quite well. https://www.jauce.com/auction/n1181014422


Quite happy with how they look- can't wait to see those needles climb in anger...



Last edited by Hudtm60 on Mon Apr 21, 2025 7:32 pm; edited 4 times in total

Leaping onwards to the oil pump..

Gave it a good clean then flipped it over and took out the small oil seal and polished up it's seat. New oil seals are not listed in the parts manual but you can get them from places such as T2 Racing and the like https://t2-r.ocnk.net/product/33



new seal and shaft in place...


and the important 8mm thrust washer....Part# 90443-844-000 goes on top...grease holds it in place while the larger thin o-ring slides over the sleeve and to my knowledge that's really all you can do to the oil pump to refurbish it. Replacement of the oil seal is important because they have been known to perish and drop down into the motor and then there's nothing stopping the 2T tank emptying itself into the crankcase. I have read on here that some owners will double check their 2T tank before starting it up to make sure that hasn't happened.


New oil pump cable from T2 https://t2-r.ocnk.net/product/154...it doesn't look long enough but it simply goes around up over the front of the engine with it's highest point just passes underneath the power valve controller and attaches to the same cable wheel as the throttle cables


Cable is well made but something seems not correct...you have to know what you are looking at here for the picture to make any sense. It took forever to get the pump pulley pointer to line up with the pump pointer with the throttle a WFO....


and then...where the cable attached on the carburettor side my low intelligence is once again challenged- this doesn't look right- exactly what will hold that adjustment in place? There's not a lot of tension there and there is no lock nut on either this T2 repro cable or the OEM but there isn't any other way I can adjust the cable tension so both the carb and the oil pump wheels start moving simultaneously...


to me this is the only smart way the carb side of the cable can be connected but in this configuration it does not allow any adjustment and on when the throttle is WFO the pointer on the oil pump pulley pulls way past the mark of the oil pump body..


I think it's a wise move to at first install some clear pump-to-carb lines...so even though you might have the engine first running on a 30:1 premix you will be able to witness the oil being pumped into the carbs.

I don't know why the hideous sight on the left didn't have me toss the whole lot in a skip...but I soldiered on....but it was this sight that made me think there was no real way I could consciously put the existing pipes back on because I couldn't imagine anyway that I could re-assemble them with only the components that came with them and prevent that horrible oily situation happening again....so I splashed out and got some Tyga pipes which I hope to put on this week!