I thought I'd post up a some pics as I've made a bit of progress on my MC21 project in the last few weeks and I have a few questions from you guys who've done this all before.

This is going to be a road bike primarily, used only for the occasional ride to a cafe in the hills when the weather's nice and I don't have any dirt racing or motard rides on. I want it to be as strong as it can be, with a focus on mid range power, good handling and strong brakes. I also want it to look good, but I'll be doing the cosmetic stuff last.

I purchased it on ebay in a bit of a gamble, (sight unseen) six months ago, and I was pretty lucky as it turned out to be a straight bike that had just been a bit neglected in terms of basic maintenance.

Since it was delivered, I've done the following:
- stripped and rebuilt front brakes. Removed caliper pistons and cleaned calipers internally, replaced fluid, new HH pads and bled, (many times....).
- removed triple clamps, cleaned and regreased headstem bearings, refitted and adjusted.
- stripped and serviced forks, new seals and oil
- replaced broken clutch lever
- changed trans oil
- cleaned and oiled air filter. The airbox lid was already hacked open - very ugly. If anyone has a stock airbox lid that I can drill neatly, please let me know.
- replaced rear tyre
- new battery

I can't seem to make my posts any longer, so I've started another one.

Then on to the more expensive items, (all from Tyga):
- top end rebuild kits
- stainless chambers with alloy cans, (I'll get fancy carbon cans one day, but these will be fine for now - I couldn't pass up that price)
- rearsets
- hi-flow reed assemblies
- jets
- powervalve cables

On to the pics:

Top end rebuild

The rest of my Tyga parts



Fitting



I initially tried to run the pipes with the OEM pegs, but found that they wouldn't fit, (not if I wanted to be able to use the rear brake anyway). I hadn't read anywhere on here that you need to run rearsets with Tyga pipes - is this normal?

Do the Tyga chambers normally sit this close to the swingarm, and does this cause any problems?



This was one of my powervalve cables, so I replaced it and bought a couple of spares.

I also did both wire splices and installed 150 main jets while I had the carbies out to install the reed cages. I'm not overly impressed with the hi-flow reed assemblies, as I reckon they're not much different to the stock set up which had reed stuffers in there anyway. I'll do some research and see if Moto Tassinari make any V-Force Delta's that will fit.

Here is the bike at the moment.





I've recently purchased, (still waiting on shipping from the US) a R6 front end and a RS125 shock, (thanks Si for your advice so far - you'll be hearing from me again soon and will probably get sick of my questions). I won't be able to fit the shock until I can afford a Tyga rear end, so it might be a few months before I tackle the suspension.

Questions:

I've fitted the OEM fairing for now, (eventually I plan to put a Tyga kit on it, but that might take me a year or two) and it rubs on the chambers - both sides under the bike. I've spaced the lower fairing out from the frame, but I've got no hope of stopping it from rubbing. Will this cause any problems? Can it wear through the chambers?

Also, are the pipes okay with the mufflers unsupported? I see heaps of the bikes on here have no brackets supporting the cans with the Tyga pipes - has anyone had a pipe crack or break due to this?

Riding the bike, the jetting is reasonably close, but there's not a lot of power until over 9000 rpm. I expect this is just because I'm used to big bore roadies and grunty dirt bikes. I think I might go about 3 teeth bigger on the rear sprocket and see how that feels. At the moment, it's not really on the pipe until over 100k's, which would be fine on a track, but on the street, I'm not using the meat of the power. If the gearing doesn't make it significantly better, I'll have to save up for a 300 kit....

Hi Mate
Looks good some nice work .
How did you get the front stand to fit I have one of them and it hits the bottom of the fairing under the headlight.

Yep - it hits the fairing under the headlight. I'm being pretty rough with this fairing as I intend to replace it. It hasn't caused any damage yet.
I just drop it off the front stand to remove or install the fairing.

When I eventually get around to fixing that problem, (which will be shortly after I spend mega bucks on a nice new fairing and paint job) I'll look into getting a longer pin for the stand where it goes into the bottom triple clamp.

woo hoo, team NSR at Mallalla mate?
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hi liam,about time you posted the bike in here glad i could be of some help to you mate,the exhaust clearence is the same as when i put my dogfights on,put a fat washer behind the fairing where it bolts up.i didnt at first and ended up with a lovely melted into shape fairing just jiggle around with the exhaust for the best position and you will be fine,its tight with the swingarm but ive not had any trouble with the hitting
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ive seen more tarts than mr kipling