After a winter of messing with too many other projects I finally got around to getting my MC28 ready for the road. The main hold up was thee lack of PGM card. For the record, Slip Stream of Au. did the best deal at about $200 US., and just under 8 weeks to my door.

My questions are.
Oil....? We run Klotz R50 in my son's racing kart w/Yamaha KT100. What should I run in the 28? Would you recommend synthetic or castor?

Plugs...? Not sure what is it now other than they are NGK's, but what do you people who are in the know recommend?

Brake Fluid...? Dot5 ? If not, then what?

Almost forgot about the clutch... I read that it's supposed to be a wet clutch (mine is a R) but it rattles like mad, like a dry. We run both wet and dry in our karts so I'm somewhat familiar. Without taking it apart how might I know which it is? Could it be a wet clutch run out of fluid? (The bike sat for about a year before I bought it) When we kart race we spend so much attention to th clutch I never heard a wet run dry.

Lastly, I was trying to figure out what the loose screw extending out from under the fairing below the tank petcock. I thought it might be a screw used to plug a drain hose but after turning it back and forth a few times I realized it was a remote carb tuning adjustment. I assume low speed circuit? Can someone tell me the initial setting for it? And confirm what it is.

I ran it up and down the road for a few miles and I can see having a blast on it! I just want to make sure all is right before I run it much. I'd hate to stick a piston. NSR's are hard to come by in the US and I'm sure their parts are as well.

I appreciate the help getting me on the road.

Thanks,
Dan.


Last edited by sgthui on Sat Apr 25, 2009 3:29 am; edited 2 times in total

As a proud 28 owner I'll try and help you out because these guys will say throw it out and get a 21.

Is it still injected or premix? That will decide what type of oil. If it's injected I run Motul 710. I've run Motul in all my 2 strokes off road and on for the past 20 years without problems.

I run the stock recommended NGK BR9ECM as do most others from what I can tell.

Nothing special with the brake fluid run your personal choice.

The knob is the idle adjustment. I have no idea what the stock setting is but if it's idling at 1500 or so you're good to go. Sometimes I have to turn mine in or out a little but other than that nothing special here.

When I get a 2 stroke I like to run a compression check just to get an idea of where it's at. Not saying it's going to tell you if your're going to stick a ring but it's a start. A leak down test is even better. I noticed that on the NSR's I've torn down a broken exhaust bridge is par for the course. If it's injected I pull the oil tank and clean it if needed especially the screen at the bottom.

Post up some pics if you can and good luck.

Thanks apexxn!

I just edited my post to add a clutch question.

As for the mix, I'm assuming it's still injected but will have to confirm. Not familiar with Motul, is it a synthetic or castor?

I know what you mean about the stygma over the 28 owners. I've been following the site for many months and see that us 28 owners are treated like redhead stepchildren
_________________
1996 MC28

If you look at the right hand side of the engine, do you see a plastic cover with perforations that allows you to see the clutch plates? Does it rattle like crazy wihle the bike is running and you've pulled the clutch in? If the answer to the plastic cover is yes, then you have a dry clutch

If you have a solid metal cover, then it is a wet clutch. If it rattles like crazy, I'd be running for the hills!


Motul 710 is synthetic. Oil choice is much of a muchness as long as you choose a good quality oil and consistently use it, rather than chopping and changing brands all the time.

sgthui wrote:Thanks apexxn!

I just edited my post to add a clutch question.

As for the mix, I'm assuming it's still injected but will have to confirm. Not familiar with Motul, is it a synthetic or castor?

I know what you mean about the stygma over the 28 owners. I've been following the site for many months and see that us 28 owners are treated like redhead stepchildren

The sixth picture is what a wet clutch cover looks like.

http://www.nsr250.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6457

Yea them 21 owners are just jealous that we can change the tuning with a simple card swipe. And of course the single sided swingarm is a thing of beauty. You'll never see a thread about how to change a 28 swinger to a 21 but the other way around is a topic that never ends. lol

apexxn wrote:
Yea them 21 owners are just jealous that we can change the tuning with a simple card swipe. And of course the single sided swingarm is a thing of beauty. You'll never see a thread about how to change a 28 swinger to a 21 but the other way around is a topic that never ends. lol

Yeah, you can have nearly as good as a stock mc21(or mc18), sightly worse than a stock mc21(or mc18) or considerably worse than a stock mc21 (or mc18), brill. Where do I sign and how much does it cost?

This is quite probably the fastest PGM-IV, mc28 framed race bike of them all right now....look at the swingarm....yep, that'll be mc21 then
_________________
Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread

Fontyy, next time you see that quick MC28 have a look at the frame number, could be wrong but I was sure it started MC21.

From what I could see the only MC28 bit was the PGM.

I'm not with the bike right now but if memory serves me, the right side cover is metal and I'm comfortable I recognize the filler plug on the cover which I assume is meant for clutch fluid.
Assuming I'm right, What fluid is used in the clutch, and how much of it? In our karts we use a specific fluid recommended by the clutch manufacturer, but some guys use an auto trans fluid. I supposed I may have done a little damage running it dry but I hope not. I'm all to familiar with rebuilding clutches on our karts so if I did damage hopefully it's not the end of the world.

Thanks for all the info.

Dan
_________________
1996 MC28

Dan,

Stick with the stock BR9ECM plugs. You can get them at www.sparkplugs.com.

For 2-stroke oil, If it's injected Motul makes a good oil (710 as mentioned above). If the injection system is not there, Motul 800 is a good pre-mix, as is Castrol A747.

For brake fluid. DOT 4 is probably best. To go with DOT5 means you need to basically make sure there is no DOT4 fluid in the system as DOT5 doesn't mix with other DOT fluids.

Gearbox oil, Again Motul makes a good gear oil (Motul Gear 300), or Redline Light Weight shock proof gear oil is a good option. Use 750 ml. Just remember, it's not just the clutch fluid, it's the gearbox as well, so you don't want to run it dry.

That knob on the end of a cable that you turned? That's the idle adjuster (or also called throttle stop adjuster).

Just a quick plug for some work I have done Honda never produced a service manual in English for any of the NSR's, I have spent some time translating the MC28 manual into English and have it available for sale. You can get more details in the the topic "English - MC28 service manuals for sale" (link http://www.nsr250.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7371)
_________________
Charles Gallant

That little grey filler cap is for the gearbox and clutch (for the wet clutch models). Might want to make sure that there's some oil in there before you run it again. I'm sure if you search the discussion forum you will find various recomendations for a good gearbox oil for these bikes. The actual amount is 800ml (from memeory), but check on the specification or workshop pages on this site.

Scott

Just as a side comment, when I was speaking to Clive Padgett (HRC race shop & team owner for those unfamiliar with the name), he said they use Castrol A747 with AVGAS and XR77 with Unleaded Fuel.

A747 is Castor / Synthetic Blend, XR77 is 100% synthetic oil.
_________________
Rich
MC21 Track Bike / RS250 NF5 'Spencer', NX5 'Cadalora' & NXA 'Aoyama' / RS500 / Two Brothers Racing RC30

Just remember, A747 and Motul 800 are for PRE-MIX ONLY!!! Do not put that into your injection system!

The Motul 710 is designed for injection systems as is Silkolene's Comp 2 Plus. If your running an injection system read the label on the oil and make sure it's designed for an injection system. Running a pre-mix type oil in an injection system could cause damage to your engine.

Now, for pre-mix, A747, Motul 800 and Silkolene Pro2 Plus are top pre-mix options in my book. I have run all three in NSR MC21 and MC28 as well as I have run the Pro2 Plus and A747 in my RS with no issues with any of them. I ran 32:1 in the NSR's and 24:1 in the RS. For the NSR I was running 100 octane. For the RS I run VP C12.

Oh and if your running a pre-mix (such as A747 or Pro2 Plus) , it's recommended that you drain your tank after use.
_________________
Charles Gallant

OK, now I'm getting stumped on the trans/clutch fluid. I go to my local Honda dealer and then to parts suppliers and ask for 10w 30 (or 40) 4t and they look at me like I'm speaking latin!!!
Is it simply a 10w30 oil? Whats the 4t?

Help, it's sunny and 75 and I want to ride!!!

most Honda dealers will carry Redline lubricants.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?categoryID=6&subCategoryID=16

The Light Weight Shock Proof gear oil will do you just fine.
_________________
Charles Gallant

OK, I guess I can relax and ride!
I just got to my storage building to find a plastic vented clutch cover. I have a dry clutch!
I pulled the dipstick on the trans and the oil looks gray and old. Can anyone direct me to the best choice ot trans oil for the dry clutch?
I'd type more but it's sunny and 78 in Michigan!