Hi there,

I have just bought a 1992 MC21 NSR250 and I have noticed a couple of things that are worrying me.

The light in the gauge cluster labelled "oil" is constantly on when im riding yet the oil reservoir is full. Any ideas what could be going on there?

Also my indicators and horn seem to only work when my headlight is on high beam? And how fast should the indicators flash? They seem to be flashing twice as fast as my old bike or a car?

Finally how long does the power band go for? I noticed when I get to 10,000 revs the bike stops accelerating?

Any help will be much appreciated.Hi there,

I have just bought a 1992 MC21 NSR250 and I have noticed a couple of things that are worrying me.

The light in the gauge cluster labelled "oil" is constantly on when im riding yet the oil reservoir is full. Any ideas what could be going on there?

Also my indicators and horn seem to only work when my headlight is on high beam? And how fast should the indicators flash? They seem to be flashing twice as fast as my old bike or a car?

Finally how long does the power band go for? I noticed when I get to 10,000 revs the bike stops accelerating?

Any help will be much appreciated.

A sense of deja vu, I read your post twice in the one post!



How comfortable are you doing troubleshooting one bike electrics?

It sounds like your oil level switch has failed, so that will need to be checked before you replace it.

You may also have a case of electrical gramlins in your switchblock, again, before replacing that it would be good if you could test it to confirm this suspicion.

Are all your indicators working?

sometimes the float inside the two stroke tank that activates the oil light can get stuck at the bottom, take the tank off and pull the oil level gubins out of the oil tank and see if it,s moving freely.

Sounds to me like the reg/rec or the stator failing. Classic symptoms of a strained charging system on the NSR.
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Andy.
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Sorry I just realised I copied and pasted it from the other thread twice.

They are barely working. They flash very fast or they stay solid on or don't come on at all.

And all the lights on the bike seem very dim and they flicker.

No disrespect to others but, I`d start with Andy`s advice and work from there.
There`s a wealth of knowledge on this site, Andy`s seen most of it at one time or another!
I didn`t know this was a classic symptom of reg/rec failure either.
The bloody things do seem to get too hot for my liking though.
Hope you find the problem soon.

Andy wrote:Sounds to me like the reg/rec or the stator failing. Classic symptoms of a strained charging system on the NSR.

Could you explain to me what the above means please? This is my first NSR.

Cheers.

May I suggest trying a search for reg/rec?!
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Andy.
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Andy's advice is probably spot on.

If you don't know what a reg/rec is, probably would recommend you either get a knowledgeable mate to supervise you working or getting it to a bike shop to check it out for you.

could the battery also be a problem?

I can't f*****g believe it!

Adding to my list of problems, I was riding home from work today and it spat its chain.

Not only did it churn up my white rim, but oil started gushing out the bottom of the gearbox.

I removed the plastic cover on the side of the gearbox and found that a thin wall has been ground away allowing oil to pour out.

Any ideas on a plan of action?

This just keeps getting better and better.

That sux dude.... on the bright side by time you've sorted out your elec' probs and leaking casing you'll be very acquainted with your MC21 Might pay to have a mechanic look her over before anything else gos bang, ping or snap.
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Ride it like u stole it!!!!!!!

Christ! You`re having a bad time!
Sorry to hear of your problems.
It`s not the end of the world though. There are a few options really.
You can take the engine out and have the cracked casing welded up. Which is what I would prefer to do.
Or, you could drain the oil. Clean the area with a solvent type cleaner then rough the area up with some emery cloth/sand paper/wet and dry paper. Brush away the filings/dust and clean again with the solvent cleaner. Then seal the cracked area up with some epoxy type resin. You can get an Aluminium loaded two part resin. Devcon F or Metal set. Once it`s set you can dress up any rough looking bits with the emery paper. This can act as a temporary or permanent repair depending on how you feel.
Another option is to get another set of cases or a bottom end.
Hope you get it sorted soon.

Yeah, it's not a perfect fix, but it's known to work. You can also use JB Weld, which is a more common metal-loaded epoxy in many countries.

The transmission isn't under a great deal of pressure (there is an oil pump inside it) so an epoxy type repair could probably last almost indefinitely. You wouldn't want to be using it on a cracked crankcase though, as were it to crack on the transmission, it will just leak oil, but it it failed on a crankcase repair it would draw air and probably seize.

As Roy says, the longevity of the repair will depend a lot on the preparation of the surrounding area. Brake or carb cleaner is good to use, as it evaporates and leaves the alloy very "dry", which in itself is often a good key for bonding to.

As for the electrical problem, as lam.666 says, check the battery is 100% before anything else. Then do a search on "reg/rec" and have a read up on how to test it, and all the other associated recommendations like conntectors and earth (ground) points.
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Andy.
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This might help:

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/fault-finding-guide.php
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