I have new Tyga carbon reeds and HRC reed blocks, but I don't know hoe to set them up. The tyga carbon reeds come wiith a set of pointed FG reeds. Do these go to the inside or outside? Should I use the tyga FG spacers or HRC metal spacers?
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james
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I bought mine from a forum member, didn't really look at them and chucked them in a box with some Boysen bit's I'd bought a while back.

When I came round to fit them I couldn't find all the FG spacers so I used the Boysen metal ones and fitted them along with just the carbon reeds in place of the std Honda ones (and some HRC rectifiers Andy sent me), i.e. I didn't know the pointed FG ones were Tyga as there's a million Boysen bits and bobs, I'd love to tell you how much better it goes but as I also droppped the MJ two sizes at the same time I have no concept of how much improvement was down to the reeds.

I had intended to do some back to back testing, but it (feels like??) it's going so well and hasn't missed a beat so I'm reluctant to mess about with it mid track day season.

So, to recap, just the metal spacers, HRC reed blocks and carbon reeds alone do work well.
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I'll bet the stacking order is: carbon, pointed, and FG spacer. I think if I were to use the metal spacer it would be too thick. Perhaps Matt can chime in.
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james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
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j911's right

Funny, see hijacked 28 chain tension thread for my trials today, but anyway recalling this thread and having gone far far too rich I thought as the carbs were off one more time I'd put my reed blocks back togeather properly;

Yep, good memory me, no need to check, it goes pointy fg, carbon reed, spacer, reed stopper.......

WRONG!!! So so so very wrong it's nearly right again.
It barely started and took a damn good bump downhill to even get there, I'd have been a hazzard pulling onto a main road at all, a hill start would not have been possible.

At that point off it all came one more time, it's still "wrong" now to Matt's spec, the Boysen intructions (there's pics for loads of setup's not just the one you've bought) show "proper reed", spacer, "pointy 1/2 reed" and reed stopper. That's what it is now, it runs fine and sounds ace (no airbox, sick and tired of taking it on and off).

So, what do the pointy things do?
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Thanks for that tip Fonty. Based on what you say, the pointed reed isn't doing anything untill the reed is almost fully open, then the reed gets progressively harder to open as the rpm goes higher. I can see where its important for the reeds to open at the correct rate to coincide with RPM, but this is probably like jetting the carbs where each bike has its own optimal rate that can only be found by experimantation on a Dyno. I guess I'll have to change my stacking order to your reccomendation.
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james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm

It's not a recommendation, it's just a comment and only that way as that's how it is in a picture in my tool box!

It runs really nice, revs right through clean as a whistle and I just chopped it running open carbs and one size up on it's "seize" jetting and it's pretty good to my eyes (but I'm no god of plug reading) so I'll leave it for now and take it up another size or two as it gets colder. It's daylight only so it hardly get used these days anyway.
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