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16" front end


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Luke F
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16" front end

Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:56 am » Post: #1 » Download Post

Morning

With all the bolax and chit chat these days about 16.5" front wheels etc I wonder if anybody for a cheap experiment has thrown in a old 16" blade wheel in there NSR?

In motard every one raves about 16.5" front wheels, chatter this and big contact patch that. Please do not say there are no good tyres for 16" wheels as thats bolax you can get the majority of new makes for them Diablos etc etc.

Well any feed back or will I be starting a new poser points section if I put one on my dobbin?

Any ideas why they could be dangerous would be nice before i go flying down the road though Wink
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Binka

 
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Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:00 am » Post: #2 » Download Post

I hate 16' front wheels.

A lot !
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StephenRC45
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Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:10 am » Post: #3 » Download Post

Luke I ran the RC45 16" front wheel in the nsr for alittle bit, the only thing that wasnt quite right is the RC wheel is a 3.50" so uses a 120 front where the NSR uses a 110.

I wouldnt be susprised to see bikes very soon comming out again with 16" front and maybe a 16.5" rear as the 16.5's have been being used (in road racing) for a very long time.
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vincbr900

 
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Mon Mar 27, 2006 10:13 am » Post: #4 » Download Post

The older style 16" tyres for the blade have a high aspect ratio so are not low profile, giving an effective rolling radius the same as a 17" wheel with low profile tyre on.
The only thing this did was make the tyre squirm more under heavy breaking.

This may be less of a problem on a lighter 130kg NSR than on a 180kg blade, but are low profile 16" tyres avilable for the 130kg NSR?
I am a big believer in not fitting Z rated tryes for 200mph, 200kg bikes to 130kg, 130mph bikes as the time taken to warm up and wet weatehr perfromance is prohibitive IMHO.

Having said that the right tyre design on a 16" rim on a 60bhp lightweight bike sounds interesting...

Vincent
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Luke F
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Mon Mar 27, 2006 1:05 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post

Well I have a 3.5 nc30 rim on the front now which uses a 120 and realy doesnt do much for me but its got them pre-war gpr70's on.

I used a 120/70 rather than 60 profile on my motard which is meant to help with soaking up chatter so iam lead to beleive, and was curious if the 16' front with the 120 what ever size on the front would offer even more radius on the tyre such as the 16.5" tyres do at the moment (meant to have larger contact patch whilst bent right over)

So apart form the tyre size steve, did you track it? or feel any difference of any kind on the asphalt positive or negative?

As for tyres well I have used diablos on a light weight bike already, non h rated and they worked fine, got upto heat within 2 laps and stayed solid all day.

Any how all just an idea at the moment as i have just seen a cracking KR1s on ebay with me name all over it Laughing
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Matt@TYGA
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Mon Mar 27, 2006 2:04 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

Faybo on a KR1S? A recipe for disaster.

First one I road was a Krappersaki test bike. My mate worked for the green boyz so got to bring all the new stuff home. Oh fond memories of a lock to lock tank slapper at 100mph coming into the very corner that my mate was standing on. Of course the pads had been knocked right back into the calipers and I just about managed to pump it up and stop the thing before the corner, which probably means I was going way to slow anyway.
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maxim
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Mon Mar 27, 2006 3:37 pm » Post: #7 » Download Post

Surprised a KRIS could HIT a 100mph without seizing!! Razz
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StephenRC45
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Mon Mar 27, 2006 11:00 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

I whacked the 16" in the '21 this afternoon, I'll get a new tyre for it later next week and take it for a good thrash. I'll let you know how it goes luke.
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elegy

 
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Mon Mar 27, 2006 11:45 pm » Post: #9 » Download Post

The 16 inch front wheel of my old rg250 (not rgv) worked very well indeed, as did the anti dive it had that's another thing that has gone out of fashion now. In fact my enduring memories of that bike are mainly of how excelent the whole front end felt. I'd go as far as saying it was better at very late braking and quick turn in without getting upset than my rgv or my aprilia rs's (probably partly due to it being lighter than either as much as the 16 inch front wheel).If the nsr's steering geometry is conservative enough then it might be worth considering.
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Andy
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Tue Mar 28, 2006 12:45 am » Post: #10 » Download Post

I'm expecting a big U-turn by Binka any second when he remembers his RG250 and how much he loved it for it's performance and handling!! Very Happy
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Matt@TYGA
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Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:27 am » Post: #11 » Download Post

Many moons ago. I'd just returned from Mallory after riding my Honda RS125. I was dropping the bike off at my sponsor's place when he threw me the keys to his 'good as new' NS400R. "Try a real bike" he said.

Off I went up the road. The exhaust note sounded like a tin bucket full of angry dried peas. Acceleration wasn't that much better than a 125GP bike if at all, but then the shock came when I tried to stop the thing.

As some of you may know, a 125GP bike stops quicker than you can squeeze the brake, but this old battleship NS was in serious need of a very big anchor. I overshot the turning I was aiming for by a good 50m.

When I eventually got back on track, throwing this nail through the twisties was a frightening experience. From a razor sharp 125 in the afternoon to a bent Bangkok bus in the evening. Horrible.

Anyway, I reckon you should go back to the wire wheel idea Luke. That'd be a better plan.

Dunno what this has to do with 16" hoops, but Andy did mention performance and handling in his last post so I reckon that's good reason for this post.

We did manage to get one to handle, but had to fit RGV250 forks, FZR 17" wheels, TZ brakes and good tyres.
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Andy
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Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:32 am » Post: #12 » Download Post

Matt@TYGA wrote:
We did manage to get one to handle, but had to fit RGV250 forks, FZR 17" wheels, TZ brakes and good tyres.

I imagine that once the motor was swapped out and the frame changed for an NC30, it was a rather good bike?! Laughing
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Matt@TYGA
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Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:38 am » Post: #13 » Download Post

What we should have done was change the engine for an RS250, then the rolling chassis for an RS250, then RS250 bodywork etc etc. That's the only sure fire way to make it work!

I suppose you could keep the NS400 valve caps, just for a bit of originality
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Andy
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Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:39 am » Post: #14 » Download Post

Matt@TYGA wrote:
I suppose you could keep the NS400 valve caps, just for a bit of originality

I didn't think the RS had those on the forks?! Wink
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Matt@TYGA
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Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:46 am » Post: #15 » Download Post

I was gonna glue them on the rebound adjusters for that '80's look.
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