That type of stand fits up into the hole in the underside of the bottom yoke.
It would be ideal if you were just switching fork legs but because you want to swap out the bottom and tope yoke assembly you will need to be more creative.
I put my bike in "traction" to do it. Mine was on the bench and on the rear paddock stand.
I used a tie around the back wheel bench and rear stand, all in one "wrap" to effectively pull the rear wheel down towards the bench tight.
Then I used a ratchet strap on the main frame to lift the front of the bike off the floor.
For added security I used two further ratchet straps also from the frame but set to pull left and right of the centre to provide lateral stability (in the end I realised I probably didn't need these)
If you do not have any handy beams above you can set up two step ladders left and right and put a beam of decent strong wood between them over the bike. Choose wood thick enough to hold your own weight, you are going to be lifting nearly 70kg.
Given the bike is only off the ground and in "traction" for the time it takes to swap out the headstock, I deemed it a safe enough risk at the time.
If in doubt you could then drop it back onto the stand you mentioned as soon as it is swapped.
In the end, as it was solid enough, I left my hanging in the air for about two weeks...!
Image enclosed to help with the description.
Last edited by Max on Mon Jun 22, 2020 6:17 am; edited 1 time in total
Another method is also possible but I have not tried it, so you would have to check the safety.
Bike is on the rear paddock stand tied down to the bench to stop it twisting.
Remove and flip them over and re fit the rider foot pegs in upside down...so they can't fold upwards.
Then lift the bike on the front paddock stand you mentioned.
Place an axle stand beneath each foot peg and gently lower the bike down so that it is siting on the rear paddock stand and the two foot pegs sit on the axle stands.
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Or if the exhausts are off you could lift the bike on the front paddock stand and place a wooden block or MX style stand under the engine, again using the rear paddock stand as a fixed point.
REMEMBER:
Before attempting any bike gymnasium ...
release the torque off the wheel spindle, top nut and any other high torque nut or bolt....you don't want to start wrestling with the bike, especially with it in the air if you can help it!!
And stay safe, check the stability of the bike in its "cradle" before you start work in earnest and .....remember to wear your high viz jacket!! 👍
I use an Abba superbike stand with a front lift arm. They are a lot of money, money, money but your other stands will meet their Waterloo when you try this...........I'll get my coat
paul g wrote:I use an Abba superbike stand with a front lift arm. They are a lot of money, money, money but your other stands will meet their Waterloo when you try this...........I'll get my coat
i use an under the stem now,but used to do the old rope around frame and hangers on the garage rafters trick _________________ ive seen more tarts than mr kipling
paul g wrote:I use an Abba superbike stand with a front lift arm. They are a lot of money, money, money but your other stands will meet their Waterloo when you try this...........I'll get my coat
Yes ! I use one with the "swingarm removal kit" .. (which is just 2 bolt on bobbins). Works great .. And I use it on other bikes _________________ MC21SP
TDR250
Hmm i was expecting a link to a stand that 'works'. I was not expecting ratchet straps from the rafters job 😂 hahaha i love this forum. Everybody has tried everything at some point. Looks like I'll have to get crrative. And thanks for the tip about taking the torque off before raising the bike. I can just imagine thats a disaster waiting to happen
I made my own stand out of threaded sections of 1" pipe. Works fine and cheap to make. Can even be disassembled for storage if need be though doesn't take that much space to keep tucked into a messy garage (see pic). _________________ -Jim
'93 MC21
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