The clutch will not disengage ! I bought this bike for my wife from a guy in Cali. USA. As soon as I got it I noticed the throttle had no freeplay and also the clutch. I adjusted the throttle and the clutch to proper freeplay. Once I started the bike the motor sounded really good, but then I stepped it into gear & it died, as it tried to launch foward.

I have pulled the cover, removed all the steels and fibers. The steels had some minor rust which I scuffed off thinking this was causing it. I check the basket and hub for wear, but everything is in smooth & good condition. Have new ones but I see no reason to replace them. My thought is the clutch pack is wrong. Maybe too thick !

Here is why I think that:

With the cover off and the clutch assembled, when I pull on the cable to disengage the clutch it must be pulled really far before everything becomes free & the wheel spins while in gear.

Fibers are approx. (3mm).120/.116 thick, the steels are (1.5mm) .060" thick. 7 fibers and 6 steels. Inner has a larger I.D. to clear the 2 spring rings. The outer looks different then the other 5 standard fibers. Can't really describe what looks different except that it is covered in fiber material, were the other 5 have like little fiber pads and show steel between them. Don't missunderstand me it has pads also but you don't see steel between them.

Does any one know what the total pack hight should be ?

Would like to purchase all new fibers and steels, Andy I see fiber's for sale, but how about the steels ?

Any suggestion ?
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I dont know if this will help you at all but i have come across a couple of clutchs that wouldnt disenguage very well caused by either a worn push rod or worn arm. What we end up doing is removing the pressure plate, and the top hat that sits inside the pressure plate bearing. Add a shim to this top hat and then replace it all. This brings back the clutch arm and so you get a better pull on the handle bar lever. Hope that makes sence. So just to recap, try a washer between the top hat and the pressure plate bearing. Might only need to be .020" or .5mm to do the trick. Very common on MX bikes!
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Tried shimming .030" did not change a thing ! I removed the pressure plate bearing and shimmed it.

any other idea's ?
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Rev the tits off it and stamp on the peddle?
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball

R U serious ?
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Er no!

Well, that's the desperate way to get moving if you're stuck somewhere, but your tranny won't last long!

Try putting the bike in gear with the engine off, pulling in the clutch and pushing it. Any better? Sometimes the spinning engine makes it worse.

Bit obvious, but have you checked the free play on the cable? If that's not properly adjusted, it'll not disengage. And is it free and smooth? Maybe old and gunked up.

Other than that I can only advise getting the revs up good and high as you put it into gear - gently. try paddling the bike forward as you do this to reduce the snatch on the chain. Once you're off you may find it eases up after a while once the motor is hot and oil is lubing everything better.
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball

Well the cable is fine, moves very smooth. Freeplay I have tried every which way, nothing seems to make a difference. From normal freeplay to none (None being the way the previous owner had it, G-wounder why ?) that is the way it has the least drag.
I really hope someone has had this problem before ! I'm rattling my brain trying to figure it out.
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Do you have the right cable fitted?
Aren't they different? Do you have an SE cable on an R, or vice-versa?
I have the same thing a little tiny, tiny bit on my R, even when I get the clutch just right. Not enough to stall, but you can just sense it dragging in gear slightly.
I read somewhere that R clutch cables are different to SE/P and I can't find the article. My cable outer is red if it makes a difference. Never know with Honda.

Chris

Can't say 100 % that it is the correct R or SE/SP cable. Regardless, no matter how much the cable pulls the clutch drags. Cable length should not be the issue unless it's streching and this one is not. I highly suspect the clutch pack but I would like some confirmation if anyone can ?
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Andy or Charles any ideas ? I have e-mail Matt see if he can help. I'm desperate
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The only other thing that it could be if the pressure plate is fully lifting, is the type of oil that was in the gear box. If the plates have soaked up the pervious oil that wasnt really a gear box oil then its possible the clutch plates might stick togther untill the oil is very warm. Castrol R used to be a fav for that.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Is the lift arm moving fully? I had a similar thing with my NC, and ended up putting a nut in there to take up the slack. Try measuring the rotation angle of the lever and comparing it to a known good bike.
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball

I think we've done the clutch arm.... we're waaaaay over this side of ideas now Dave lol
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Weeeell, he hasn't said as much...

If the cable is good, the lift arm's good, the basket isn't notched, there's the right number of plates, the oil's good and he's pulling the correct lever, I dunno!
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball

hehe maybe hes pulling the brake lever and thats why the bike wont move forwards when its in gear
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...