What tools will I need for an engine rebuild other than the flywheel puller? I seem to remember seeing an RC Valve puller tool on the TYGA Website. Do I need this as well?
I managed to remove my RC vlaves without the puller. You could make one with a stack of washers or something that you can tighten the reverse thread bolt down onto, add another washer, tighten, add another washer etc. unti lit gets loose, but the problem iis the seal and circlip which has got to come out with it. If yours are more clogged than mine it might be tricky. _________________ MC28 SE -sold-
MC21 with RS250 engine -for sale-
MC21 race bike -soon for sale-
You may also need a clutch tool to hold the basket safely as they aren't particularly welcoming to having a lot of force applied... Using a good impact wrench on ALL the bolts helps though, as you can hold things like the flywheel and clutch with your fingers as the wrench spins off the nut. You'll still need the special tools and a torque wrench to do things up again though. _________________ NSR300R - Why did i ever have a 250...
Clarkie,what is this special arrangement?i got to replace one of my base gaskets(top barrel) and would like to know,also the nut under the power valve looks tricky as a socket or ring spanner wont go on ,any tips?like get Jeff to do it .
nsr.wayne wrote:Clarkie,what is this special arrangement?i got to replace one of my base gaskets(top barrel) and would like to know,also the nut under the power valve looks tricky as a socket or ring spanner wont go on ,any tips?like get Jeff to do it .
I use a claw foot socket attachment. I got a set at Sears. It's basically a open end wrench, that fits on a socket driver.
I think one of the main things you will need is a torque wrench. Every nut/bolt that you need to tighten needs to be torqued properly. Don't go by feel.
You can also get a clutch basket holder tool from ProMotion tools. Just be careful when using these tools. If you put pressure on the basket, it will easly crack the basket.
After the rebuild is done, you will want to do a leak down test to make sure the engine is sealed properly. You can put a leak down tester together with parts from the local hardware store, or go buy one.
I found it REALLY hard to get a socket on the base nuts, and almost impossible to get a torque wrench on it. Demon Tweeks list a slim ring spanner that has a 3/8 drive knuckle on the other end.
I never reall got a decent solution when I did mine.
JHA list a tool for the job too.
nsr.wayne wrote:Clarkie,what is this special arrangement?i got to replace one of my base gaskets(top barrel) and would like to know,also the nut under the power valve looks tricky as a socket or ring spanner wont go on ,any tips?like get Jeff to do it .
You'll also need a fly wheel puller too. One can be purchased from our very own Andy (NSR-World) if you look in the new market place. Genuine Honda too _________________ If I have to take the carbs off once more...
A good place to start would be making sure you have a DECENT paddock stand to sit her upright on and a bag of patience with lots of mugs of coffee on tap.
As always, having your tools clean and in good order is a must - shyte tools - shyte job really.
The NSR engine is so neat and tidy, having it upright seems to be a must.
Good luck with it... may the force be with you. _________________ These aren't the droids you're looking for.
I should point out I did my work on the 300 barrels, but recall the 250 to be tricky too.
Couldn't agree more about the tools.
Does anyone have one of those hydraulic ramps that M&P sell for £300?
Seriously considering one of those - crawling around the garage floor is losing it's allure.
Dunno about the M&P stand's specifically, if you do much maintenance on bike's, they're a godsend.
I bought one (new) off ebay for £280 delivered, there seems to be two main types of hydraulic lift's, scissor type or parallel, parallel are sturdier with a bike aboard.
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