I've decided its about time I serviced my front forks (the shock will be next) before I get the bike back on track.

Can anyone please tell me the recommended oil weight (5w? 10w?) for the mc21 and how much fluid to use that would suit a track only bike?
Also where can I get a quality set of seals/ dustcaps for it?

Search and you shall find:

http://www.nsr-world.com/tuning/250-tuning/suspension/

http://www.nsr250.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10369&sid=97e9ea679a665ecd24d2a63c5ed18f1b

Pyramid parts seals were ok, all balls looked the best (haven't seen them in long enough to know how good they are).

Thats excellent thanks.

I did search, but didn't find those!

OEM seals and bushes are best, can get them right here

http://nsr-world.com/marketplace/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=121

at 20 quid even with shipping it's cheaper than buying those in US

I went with OEM for ALL of my fork rebuilds and have never had one go bad, leak, tear, etc.

Just as the link tuning page says, for my MC28, I went with a 10/15W combo. Half and half to be exact and I was really like how it was handling for the track.

If you don't have a bushing/seal driver, a properly fitted piece of PVC pipe works just as well!

Dana
_________________
2016 Husqvarna 701SM
2021 Husqvarna FS450 supermoto
2014 Honda CRF250R supermoto
1995 NSR250r MC28

BTW, no reason to change seals if you are just changing oil (drain and fill) however since I rarely open them up I do like to pull the forks completely apart to inspect the teflon bushes for wear, if you feel that you can spare 20 quid it's a good bit of preventive maintenance to replace seals.

Dana wrote:I went with OEM for ALL of my fork rebuilds and have never had one go bad, leak, tear, etc.

If you don't have a bushing/seal driver, a properly fitted piece of PVC pipe works just as well!

Dana

I'm not having a go at you, pointing out the irony...but one moment you say nothing but genuine, the next you say don't use purpose made tools

I do have all the tools to rebuild a set of forks, including a home made seal driver..

I always replace the seals when pulling down the forks, it makes sense to me to fully inspect them and replace all the consumables with new.

Thanks for the info, the WSBK is on here this weekend so I'll be pulling them down mid next week sometime.

nxrsr20 wrote:

Dana wrote:I went with OEM for ALL of my fork rebuilds and have never had one go bad, leak, tear, etc.

If you don't have a bushing/seal driver, a properly fitted piece of PVC pipe works just as well!

Dana

I'm not having a go at you, pointing out the irony...but one moment you say nothing but genuine, the next you say don't use purpose made tools

Touche!

I actually have seal drivers for all the bikes I own, but in my younger years, I found some ways to get around having to pay $50 on a seal driver I would only use once.

Dana
_________________
2016 Husqvarna 701SM
2021 Husqvarna FS450 supermoto
2014 Honda CRF250R supermoto
1995 NSR250r MC28

has anyone tinkered with air gap & noticed a difference?