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Flywheel


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Gareth

 
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Flywheel

Thu Mar 31, 2005 5:54 pm » Post: #1 » Download Post

Anyone know if there is a set gap for the pickups and the rises on the flywheel ?
The raised bits on my flywheel look uneven on the face, looks like hammer damage to me. Can i file these flat or will filing widen the gap to the ( is it a pulse generator and make things worse ?.
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Binka

 
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Fri Apr 01, 2005 6:53 pm » Post: #2 » Download Post

There will be a clearance figure which is pretty standard across the board but unfortunately I've just tidied all the bike stuff away from the house.

Dressing it and removing any obvious problems should be fine but there is a school of thought that I should pay much more attention to . . .

IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T TRY TO FIX IT.
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Gareth

 
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Flywheel

Sat Apr 02, 2005 12:07 am » Post: #3 » Download Post

your probley right, for if its breakable it will break if i touch it.
must rember to put the cover on again keep it out of sight and out of mind.
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Matt@TYGA
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Sat Apr 02, 2005 3:22 am » Post: #4 » Download Post

Don't think that Honda, or anyone else really recommends a gap, but as long as it's close enough to take a reading, and not too close to hit it should be fine.

I've modified several pickups etc, not just on NSR's, and when setting the pickup i generally stick a 1mm feeler between the sensor and the flywheel, and then nip it up. not had a problem.
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Gareth

 
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Sat Apr 02, 2005 10:15 am » Post: #5 » Download Post

Now am in to minds, Ill replace the plug leads as one has corrosion blackness in the wire center, will replace both leads first with new and see if that improves things first, also just noticed the coil is all corrodid, any ideas how to clean the spicke the lead plugs into, or is a scrape with a flathead screwdriver gonna be good enough.
The spark isent great.
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Dave Ett
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Sat Apr 02, 2005 2:26 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

Can you get a small wire brush to it? Or a needle file perhaps, both preferable to a screwdriver!
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Binka

 
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Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:02 am » Post: #7 » Download Post

An ideal bit of kit to use is a mini wire brush - you can get them in crafty type shops or anywhere that sells Dremels / Wizards. It's just a tiny wire mop that goes in a drill / Dremel.

I have a few spare - you can have one for zip if you want, I get through about 3 Dremels a year and they always come with a load of useless extras and some useful ones such as the wire mop.

Not wanting to make anything of it but I am pretty sure there's a minimum CDi pickup gap - if it get's too wide then the timing drifts out and the load on the CDi goes up. If it's not in any Honda manual it will be a generally accepted figure. I'll look it out for you later on today.
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Gareth

 
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Sun Apr 03, 2005 10:50 am » Post: #8 » Download Post

Thanks for the help everyone, and thank you Binka for the offer, I`ll try a needle file first on the coil.

I faced the flywheel and pickups and have the gap set at 1mm.
I cant wait to get everything together again. The bike is in bits for a good clean, heat resistant paint on the chambers and service befor M.O.T.

Funny how a nsr looks without the exausts on.
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Binka

 
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Sun Apr 03, 2005 10:32 pm » Post: #9 » Download Post

Exhaust paint, the best stuff going is Plasticote woodstove satin. Get it from B&Q for about £5-£8 a can.

Works better that any of the Sperex / VHT paint stuff you get from auto shops.

Razz
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Gareth

 
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Mon Apr 04, 2005 12:56 pm » Post: #10 » Download Post

Iv`e tried INTERNATIONAL, HEAT RESISTANT ENAMEL, for friesuronds and pipework, its been in the shed near a week and still got wet parts on the seams. Alough it looks better than that black sprey can stoff that falls off again.
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nsr.wayne
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Mon Apr 04, 2005 7:26 pm » Post: #11 » Download Post

Just take the exhausts to a local chrome platers and get them done in black chrome. Cool
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