I had noticed my lower exhaust was leaking, so when I was ready to remove it, I just found there is no bolt!

Suggestions on how to proceed? I just have the basic tools.

I guess a leaking exhaust is not good for performance...


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Is there any of the stud sticking out? A vice wrench might be able to unscrew it?
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it wouldn't be fun if it was easy!

I still have not removed it yet.

So, it there's a bit left, I'll try to unscrew it.

yes, there are like 5 mm left, but I can not unscrew it with my tools. It's really stuck, although the other one can be removed by hand. Will look for a powerfull vice, thanks

Get someone to weld a nut on it. The heat will loosen the stay and the nut and stay is easier to loosen with a spanner.
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Poul
"If Life Gets Boring, Risk It!"
MC21SE, KISS box
MC21SP, HRC box, racing loom

Spray it with CRC or WD40, let it seep into the thread, wait an hour, do it again, wait another hour and do it again.
Leave it a day, give it another spray then use a pair of vice grips to extract the stud.

{.bLanK}GoD wrote:Spray it with CRC or WD40, let it seep into the thread, wait an hour, do it again, wait another hour and do it again.
Leave it a day, give it another spray then use a pair of vice grips to extract the stud.

I think this'll be the first option. But since it is the right cyclinder, the stud is pointing down. I doubt the oil will hold.

It if doesn't work, then I'll try to drill a left thread inside the stud. The nut welding method seems promising only if I knew how to weld!

I've also been suggested to heat it with a torch, bang it with a hammer and use the vice grips.

I promise I'll post the results!
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Hi Mate
When I use to work in an exaust shop we had broken studs to deal with all the time prob harder as they were rusty on cars the ways we got them out was a bit of heat around the stud trying not to heat the stud then use vice grips or stud remover both work . If that fails drill a hole around 3/4 of the size of the stud and use a ezy out or if you dont have a easy out a self taping screw srewed in realy hard then heat around stud . If that fails drill hole out to same size as the inner thread then you can pick out the rest of the thread but your hole needs to be right in the middle .
Hope that helps .

Take the barrel off before even attempting a job like this. It will be much easier and less chance of destroying something. For the cost of a base gasket it will be worth it.

Harryredchow wrote:Take the barrel off before even attempting a job like this. It will be much easier and less chance of destroying something. For the cost of a base gasket it will be worth it.

Hell no! not unless you snap an easy out in there.

I avoid easy outs as much as possible. Especially if there is part of the stud left to get vice grips onto. If vice grips can't get it out, sure as hell an easy out wont.
Spray CRC from the top side too, that hole goes all the way through as you can see in your picture.

If it must be drilled, get a left hand twist drill bit 3/4 the diameter of the stud (use cutting oil), by the time you drill all the way through the length of the stud it should just about twist itself out.

Mild heat on the surrounding aluminum, freeze spray on the stud. Easy outs are the devils tools. Easy outs are hardened steel, but it doesn't take much to snap one. Then you are in for a very expensive repair.

I did it! Two keys: CRC + the working position. Working with the LHD exhaust on only ollowed me to work from the side of the stud. Once removed the exhaust, I could work from underneath and out it came. But a lot of CRC was needed.

Thanks to all



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Now, when installing new ones, do they have to be loctited or just bolt them "dry"?
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Yay!
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it wouldn't be fun if it was easy!

Shot!
Yip CRC FTW!
Use a little anti seize when reinstalling the new stud.
Thread two nuts onto the stud, lock them together to screw it into the cylinder barrel.
Exhaust studs always require brass nuts. Put a bit of anti seize on there too but that's what the brass is for.

{.bLanK}GoD wrote:Shot!
Yip CRC FTW!
Use a little anti seize when reinstalling the new stud.
Thread two nuts onto the stud, lock them together to screw it into the cylinder barrel.
Exhaust studs always require brass nuts. Put a bit of anti seize on there too but that's what the brass is for.

Will proceed as recommended.

Anti seize = grease?

Wrt the brass nut, I ordered the original pn from the local Honda dealer.

PS. I also looked for the significance of yay, yip & FTW. This forum is also teaching me real english!
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First hit from Google.
http://www.sealanddesign.com/category/7/Loctite/page/104/Lubricating/cpage/49/Anti_Seize.aspx