I'm a bit stuck with the RC valve adjustment.
when I turn my key on I don't hear the valves cycle.
second I am not sure which is the tps. the right frame side has a clear and one green connector. which one is it?

Thanks

TPS connector is the clear one (its pretty easy to follow the leads to be sure!). What model NSR is it?

I have an MC18 and mine doesn't cycle on startup or when you unplug the TPS, so I'm still wondering how to set the RC valves.

I have a 21 I unplugged the clear one turned the key to on and there was was nothing.

With it all plugged in and ignition off, manually position the valve to one of it's end stops. Switch on the ignition and it should move to it's start position. When idling, it cycles back and forth.

To set it up, either use the hole in the end bracket and a drill bit, or better still, remove the exhaust and feel the lower edge is flush with the manifold when fully retracted.
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Dave Ett wrote:
To set it up, either use the hole in the end bracket and a drill bit, or better still, remove the exhaust and feel the lower edge is flush with the manifold when fully retracted.

So, when we set it up, aligning the marks or using the hole, we just set it to the position that the servo is in when we turn the ignition on (and the motor is off)?

I think the confusion comes from the workshop section saying that unplugging the TPS moves the servo to the position required for this setup, but when the TPS is disconnected, nothing happens (its in the same place as when the TPS was connected).

Personally I think that the only proper way to do it is to pull the pipes off and manually rotate the valves to fully open. If you shine a torch up the flue you'll be able to set them pretty accurately. They want to be just right, or maybe even a fraction (0.1~0.2mm) above the port. Now scribe a line on the back plate of the RC valve pulley holder thingy so that you can clearly see the exact fully open position.

Put everything back together, start the bike and let it run in the 2~3000rpm range where the valves will move to full open, and you can tickle the adjusters up to make sure it aligns perfectly with your mark. Don't over tension the cables.

A few blips of the throttle will let the valves cycle open and closed, and then check again in the 2~3k range. If all's well lock up the adjusters and go out and ride the thing.

If you've got too much money then once you've got this far throw it on the dyno and have a fiddle. Just half a turn here and there can make a difference but you can get it pretty close to start with.

why is it full open at 2-3000rpm? does that mean any rev range over 3000rpm the bikes runs with wide open valves?
The only other 2 stroke I've worked on is a rgv and valves don't start moving until 8000rpm.

The valves move to their open position at about 2K then close again at 3K. Basically for setup purposes. Then they start to open again at 7K.

thanks.
I'll give it another go tonight.