Hi guys.

More strange happenings in my rebuild.

I've done a couple of heat cycles now and was thoroughly enjoying my new dry clutch sound. However, I tried dropping it into gear and the bike stalled. I then realised I couldn't even push the bike in gear without the engine trying to turn over. I've adjusted the clutch cable, really tight. I don't have the clutch cover on and When I pull the lever the outer cover thing moves a good 5mm or so. In neutral pull in the clutch make it emit even more noise. But she just won't slip!. I'm very confident I got everything back in, and all in the right order. I used the parts manual to make sure of that. Just wondering what it could be. Oh, everything was used, no new parts and I kept all the plates in the same order. Only difference was fitting a few clutch rubbers 3 out of 4 broke because the inner plate doesn't have notches for them or I failed to notice said notches and put them on the wrong splines.

Dove tail question. I'm running a bit of premix as well as injection. I wanted to check the injectors were working ok so I popped the hose off one of the nozzles. At tickover, with the oil pump cranked to full it was pumping out tiny little blips of oil in pulses. The pulses were spread out, maybe not quite a second apart. Does that sound ok?

Cheers

Clancy

P.S. Mods, I hope it's ok that I'm making separate threads for all my little problems. They all seem very different so I figured it would make it easier for people to find info in the future. If you want me to combine everything, let me know.

If the outer cover is moving it's hard to visualize what could be happening, especially if you can hear the plates rattling.

Put it in gear, take the outer cover off, leave the rest of the plates in and turn the rear wheel. It sounds silly to suggest with no pressure on the plates at all that the clutch won't slip but by saying the plate moves 5mm and still doesn't slip that's what you're saying.
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Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread

Yeah, the springs compress and the outer metal plate bracket thing with the springs in it physically moves out 5mm.

But no slip.

I'll take the cover off and see what's going on I guess.

my oil pump works the same way (MC21). little tiny blips of oil pulsing maybe a second apart while in wide open position.

Maybe there are grooves worn in your basket and hub , these cause issues with the plates from moving along the splines and the clutch grabs . Try and clean up the grooves , file them out . Do you have any pictures that we can see ?

i had this once with a motox bike. as you are fitting a second hand clutch are you sure all the washers to seperate the outer basket and inner basket are fitted in the correct place. i found that one had been overlooked when someone rebuilt the clutch so the outer and inner clutch ended up essentialy bolted together.
if you remove all the plates but leave the basket and inner in place you should find they can be moved seperately. if not its almost certainly your issue

So I tore down the clutch.

Until I removed the big nut, the two baskets were stuck together.

I think I have a issue with washers. I have two, but they were both under the nut. Is one meant to separate the two baskets?

It doesn't look like that on the parts manual so I'm not sure.

The outer basket is connected to the main drive, the inner Bolts to the gearbox. I dont see how the 2 baskets can be locked together, unless the spacer (part 3) is missing. There are only 2 washers, one under the nut market "Outside", and one on the pressure plate
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Thanks for the help so far guys.

Still not right - here's the graphical version...

1. Everything is off. You can see the spacer - no problems. The inner spline spins freely and the outer hub is attached the the crank. I.E. turns with the kickstarter. Spacer is attached to neither and spins independently of both (but not very easily)



2. Clutch basket back on and torqued down. Spacer still visible. Clutch basket attached to crank/kickstarter. Centre spline + Spacer still spin.



3. Inner Hub mounted. Spins freely.



4. Washer



5. Locknut



6. Washer and Locknut on - Still spins freely............until................




7. I Torque the lock nut to 100NM. *Then* everything is locked together........

Help!

Hopefully that explains everything.

Thanks

Clancy

forgive me if i am wrong , that washer is supposed to go one way only ?
the writing says out or outside is'nt it ?
100nm , is that correct ?

Can you discern at what point the 2 baskets lock up, ie, how tight the bolt is before it locks? It looks as though everything is going on as it should, just that it is locking together, seems very strange?

On the reverse side of the inner, are there any marks from the outer?
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I thought there might be a question about the back of the inner.

So I took a photo earlier.

Everything locks up when the nut gets torqued down. A little torque and it still turns stiffly. More torque tighter and tighter until it's locked.

Here's the back of the inner. It has a little notch that nothing fits in, if that matters.

struth, that spacer has gouged out some of your inner, unless it just looks as though it has..
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There's a step down. Kinda brassy looking.

Doesn't really look gouged though. It was like that when I took it apart but I've never run the engine, nor have I ever stripped down a dry clutch.

So are we thinking that's the problem?

Um, theres no step down champo'
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