On the rear barrel the nut under the RC valve assembley is a tricky sod - I guess there is a Honda special tool/socket for this one - I ground a ring spanner to fit a couple years back so it was just a case of fishing it out of the toolbox. Being the tricky one I always crack the torque on this one first then diagonal & across, they studs were soaked in penetrating oil a few days ago in preperation - well it didn't help ! Had to get medievil on the thing
The three easy access ones come off no worries , the front cyclinder was much the same but less carnage on the nut 
The upside, all fingers and knuckles are still intact
So new stud (it got a bit destroyed and already removed) & 8 new nuts ordered up (mental having just two shiney new ones).
Pulled the power valve rails out and the seals look worse for wear so new ones ordered too , one set of power valves have rusted but are no longer avaialble new
With the engine sitting the cages on the reed blocks are heavily rusted too - might have others in my read block box 
Front piston shows some signs of overheating - is this common for the bikes ? Rear looks fine , both bores have some marks here and there but nothing terrible or deep.
Rear:
Front:
Although there is no signs of oil leak/weap at the dry clutch I was wanting to get a replacement seal for it, these are now no longer available so my advice would be to put a conditioner into the oil to revitalize - should this or any MC18 dry clutch seal go your only option is swapping it out for a MC21 set-up with the revised parts.
Crank looks good with no major rust and spins freely in casing without abnormal movement or noise.
Didn't have time to open up the carbs so they need to wait until next week now as tomorrow is another full day
Still a lot of motor for the money so if you have a set of SP powervalves it's worthwhile grabbing it , ask around and see if they can be fitted with 21 version or not.
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